ParkZone T-28 Trojan Motor Upgrade
If you want to give your ParkZone T-28 Trojan unlimited vertical flight for under $30, today is your lucky day. Just head over to hobbycity.com, and pick up one of these Turnigy 35-36C motors.
Here’s what you’ll need to do the upgrade:
- The new motor (duh)
- A Phillips-head screwdriver
- An everyday drill and an ordinary drill bit
(not sure of the drill bit size — you’ll figure it out) - A new prop (I use an APC 10×3.8). The stock prop’s shaft is too wide for this motor’s prop adapter
You may be asking:
- Do I need a soldering iron? No.
- Do I need to cut some wood or aluminum for a firewall? No.
Here’s what you do:
- Unscrew the three screws that secure the cowling to the nose of the plane
- Unscrew the four screws that hold the plastic motor mount to the firewall
- Disconnect the three motor wires (red, yellow, and black)
- Unscrew the motor from the motor mount
- Use the cross mount thing that came with the motor to pencil in the 4 new holes you’ll be drilling
- Drill the holes (be sure to use a drill bit that is the same size as the old holes
- Screw the motor on to the mount, connect the wires, and put the whole thing back on the plane
- Hold the plane straight up, power it up to full throttle, and release
- Watch it fly straight up to the clouds like a friggin’ rocket
Here are some photos of my (not so) handiwork:
This is what it looks like when it’s done. The motor isn’t quite as long as the stock motor, so I tossed a nut on the shaft before I put the propeller on. Without that nut, the prop would be rubbing on the cowling.
Here’s the motor bolted to the stock motor mount. I was in the process of screwing in the 4 mounting screws when I took this.
Here’s where I drilled the 4 new holes for the new motor (circled in blue). The new motor has two holes that are perfectly spaced to line up with the stock motor mount, but the other two holes are actually closer to each other, so you have to drill. I opted to drill 4 new holes, but you may get away with using just two of the stock holes, or even drilling only 2 new holes. I wasn’t quite willing to trust that, and after seeing just how much torque this motor provides, I’m glad I didn’t.
You may also notice in the photo above that this motor has a really weird prop adapter. Rather than tightening on to the shaft, it actually screws onto the bell of the motor. Notice that the motor has a shaft that extends out the aft side of the motor (if you wanted to mount it in reverse). I’ve never seen that in a motor before, but I like it. It seems much sturdier with 4 screws on the bell than a single set screw or “clamp” style prop adapter fastened to the shaft.
The Results
I took it out to the flying field today and did my usual hand launch. Except this time I only launched it using half throttle. It flew out perfectly. After a couple seconds, I punched it up to full throttle and aimed the nose at the clouds. It flew perfectly vertical for a good 5 seconds, showing no signs of slowing down. It was awesome. I was flying huge loops, square loops, vertical rolling ascents. It was great.
One problem is that the plastic motor mount causes a lot of vibration at the higher end. Oddly, the vibrating happens at about 75% throttle, but then goes away at 100% throttle. I am looking into using an aluminum mount instead. Lots of people have reported that a sturdier mount fixes the vibration problem. Don’t underestimate the vibration problem — it caused my plastic motor mount to break with a big 11″ Master Airscrew prop.
The Electronics
I used the stock speed controller (ESC), but I also have a ParkBEC because I don’t trust the stock ESC’s integrated BEC at all, having heard lots of horror stories about it. The stock ESC showed no sign of overheating, though it was about 45 degrees F outside. The motor stayed cool too.
I used a new Zippy 2200mah battery from hobbycity.com. It did great too. No signs of overheating. It came down just barely perceptibly warm to the touch. Within seconds, it had cooled to room temperature. This was the first flight of the new Zippy battery.
My Watt’s Up tells me that the 10×3.8 prop makes this motor pull exactly 30 amps. That’s a lot of amps for this ESC, so I also bought a SuperSimple 50A ESC from hobbycity.com, which I have not installed yet. I may wait to see how the stock ESC performs for a while, because I just don’t want to solder all that crap again (including the ParkBEC).
Bottom Line
This motor is awesome. I plan to use the T-28 as an Aerotow plane soon, so this motor will give me exactly the torque I need. The plane is still quite a slow flyer compared to my Stryker, but even though the T-28’s top speed is lower, it has better vertical.
63 comments to “ParkZone T-28 Trojan Motor Upgrade”
Doing aerotowing will be a lot of fun. We started doing it this year with a e-flight pawnee with a motor from extreme flight (Torque 2814/820)pulling a Multiplex Culairs. The Culairs pulls up so nice and flys very easy and stays up real well. We started with a 3cell 3300 mah battery,but it was not enough power. Next we tried a 4 cell 2500 mah and it did much better. Next we tried a 4 cell 3850mah and this works perfect. Last week we got a 1400 foot release. We get 3 to 4 tugs before the battery has to be changed. With this set up pulling the Culairs it takes full power the whole time of about 2 to 3 min. We also have pulled up a smaller sailplane, a foam Fox and it can be pulled almost at a 45 degree angle. We found out that you need a ship with ailerons to keep the wings level. Tried a gentle laddy and it was not easy. Ailerons make it so much easier, all you do the whole time your being towed is just keep the wings level, do not try to stear it though the turns. I went with the power 10 with my T-28 with a 40 amp speed control with a 11-7 prop and would never go back to stock. Give it a try and you’ll be hooked! Allen Young Phoenix,AZ
I have the T-28, and was curious about your statement about the
horror stories of the ESC and intergrated BEC.. Ok, I am new to
electrics, and not sure what you mean.. Been an alcoholic and
nitro freak all these years, but the T-28 is my first electric, and a very
enjoyable flyer!! I would like to see longer flight times, and am
assuming that one with a larger capacity, like a 2200 or maybe
2500 is in order for that. But, please enlighten me about the horror
stories.
Thanks,
Scott Terry
saterry@skywi.com
I purchased a Super Simple 50A ESC with the motor you recommended and when I hook it up it just beeps at me. 10 sets of 3 beeps with a few second pause between. Any one that could help?
Try raising and lower the throttle?
The 50A super simple ESC has no BEC, so you need to install one. It will go to the battery,2 wires, and the reciever 2 or three wires. The setup you now have has no power to the reciever, so the ESC is saying turn on reciever. My best guess, anyway.
Hi, Dave….. Not to talented with this but wondering if you could post this to the RCU and the Wattflyer RC Forums site web site.http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/ Nice T-28 members here.
Very Nicley done….. Al
Why you’re suggesting that propeller?
I’m a newbie and I would like to try different ones, which one you suggest to try?
how about a 10×8?
I am using a Turnigy plush 30 amp
Thanks
Ianzo: I suggested the new prop because the stock prop doesn’t fit the prop adapter with the new motor that I bought.
A 10×8 would probably pull too many amps for your speed controller.
Which Zippy 2200 Mah Battery did you did you purchase from hobbycity
Kurt,
Click on the words “Zippy 2200mah battery” in the article above, and it will take you right to the battery I used.
hows that stock 30amp esc working so far?
Travis:
The stock ESC is running great. I’ve been using it for 6 months with no problem. But … bare in mind that I am using an external ParkBEC, so the integrated BEC in the ESC is not being used at all.
–Dave
Dave,
You did an excellent job on this post,thanks. Just installed your setup but without the park bec. Motor really sounds and pulls awesome. Much better than stock. Wondering if Its worth running it at the field without bec.?
Maybe i should cut out some cooling vents in the foam?
Any thoughts?
-Travis
I’ve done the mod ad described but I can’t get full throttle because of the vibrations, I have balanced the props using a du-bro balancer but it doesn’t works out.
If I raise the power it begins to vibrate very hardly, it seems it would broke :(
Ianzo: Have you run the throttle up to full? Mine vibrates at half throttle, but stops vibrating at about 3/4 throttle. Also, in flight I can’t hear any vibration at all. I think the vibration is caused by the prop pulling against your stationary plane. That’s just what my plane does though, so be careful. Vibration is very very bad, especially with a rather weak motor mount like this one.
–Dave
Ok I’ve installed the motor on the table with a clamp, only esc receiver and battery conected.
The motor runs fine without any vibration for the whole throttle range.
Now what I have to check? may I check it in fly and forget about vibrations when it’s on the ground?
I also purchased a motor mount wich I read it would be perfect for this Trojan but it’s too long and I have to work on it for replacing the standard mount.
HXT Motor Mount for 35-30 size motor
http://www.unitedhobbies.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4689
Thank you
Anyone know where I can get a replacement firewall w/o having to buy the whole fuselage? Thks JTF
Ianzo: It could be that the plane is simply resonating. Did you use the same prop that I used?
About your HXT motor mount, that motor mount works, but you have to reverse the motor (facing backwards).
I have reversed the motor and bought a prop adapter for the 4mm shaft, now it doesn’t vibrates but I don’t know if was the firewall or the prop mount…
The shaft isn’t so long but I can install the prop only cutting a bit of the plastic nose.
I have a lot of prop to try but I want to use a 30A turnigy plush right now, tomorrow I will do some measurements with the wattsup, it’s a pain to enlarge the prop holes ;P
With 10×7 I remember it loads 40A wich I think it would be very funny
10×3.8 loads 32 Ap of peak and it goes straight up in the air but I think the esc will burn…
My T-28 stock ESC has not burned up after several months of use with lots of WOT flying with that motor/prop. It does indeed pull about 30 amps static at full throttle.
Dave, I’m glad to have found your blog. I followed your directions for the motor upgrade, and have my friend with a stock Parkzone F4U corsair green with envy!!! I have a 2200 mah battery, and a Turnigy 40 amp plush Esc. What is the highest output battery I can use with this configuration. I think I’m becoming addicted to speed!!! Thanks again,
Aaron
Aaron,
Awesome. I use a 2200mah battery too. Adding a higher capacity battery will not improve your speed. The motor “pulls” power from the battery and if the battery can keep up, it will. If it can’t, you’ll run slower. I imagine you are pulling about 30 amps with this motor/prop, so if your battery is rated at 20C, that’s as fast as it needs to be.
You might experiment with different props (11×5, 10×6, etc) to see what effect they have. Be sure to measure the current on the ground first so you don’t burn up in the air!
Good luck!
–Dave
Mine has a new 40A Turnigy plush esc, 10×7 prop draws much that 40A but it rocks!!!
10×3.8 is the best choice I think, I will use this because I will also turn the T-28 into a fpv model,
Thanks for yours suggestions and have fun.
lanzo:
Did you solve your vibration problems? I have a problem of my own now.
I tried out a new prop, 11×4, just to see how it works. I powered it up, and the prop began to vibrate a bit. Adding more throttle, the vibrations went away. So I did it again, but this time the vibrations were so bad that it broke my motor mount.
What did I do wrong? The shaft is not bent. The prop was probably balanced.
I’m confused? Why did the prop stop vibrating at high power?
–Dave
Dave:
My T-28 with the 35-36C motor and APC 10x7E prop acts similar. Up to about half throttle, everything is fine, but past 1/2 throttle, it starts to vibrate violently…to the point where I already broke one motor mount. Without the prop on, the motor seems to spin fine throughout full throttle range. Do I need a new prop?
Kelsey
Kelsey:
I don’t think it’s the prop, though I think bigger diameter props cause the vibration to be more violent (and break the motor mount more quickly).
I found this thread (see below), and I think we’re getting close to a reason. At this point I blame the flimsy plastic motor mount.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1067488
–Dave
I made a new, more sturdy, motor mount for my Turnigy 3536C and all of the vibration has went away. The mount I made is similar to the picture in the attached link:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2457389
I used a plastic washer though (made from an old kitchen cutting board), to try and reduce the weight.
Kelsey
Kelsey:
How did you make that aluminum ring? I don’t have any machining experience. Do you think I could buy something like that pre-fabricated?
–Dave
The “aluminum ring” is a regular flat washer that you can buy at any hardware store. Just match the size up with the plastic stock motor mount. Rather than using a flat washer, I just cut a washer out of some hard plastic (kitchen cutting board), and drilled appropriately spaced holes for the bolts.
You can also buy more heavy duty motor mounts from your local hobby shop, or many online hobby stores. Check out the site below, or google “brushless motor mounts”
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/greatplanes/gpmg1250m.html
bought a aluminum motor mount (t-28 to 35/36) from books-and-steam on ebay and all vibrations went away.
Can anyone recommend and ESC that works with the Turnigy motor that has the BEC included? I’d prefer not to have a separate Rx battery. I’m new to electric flying and not exactly sure what BEC to buy in conjunction with the HK ESC.
Brian, I would try this one:
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=658
It’s inexpensive, and it has worked great for me on several other motors, though I haven’t used it with this one (I have used it with bigger motors though, so it should be fine).
I’ve used several of these over the years and they have served me well.
OK I am a little confused. Your Blog says want unlimited vertical flight for under $30 dollars? First I did order the motor and am expecting it any day. But then your blog goes on to say I need a new prop $4.00 and I need a new BEC $20 and I need a new Zippy battery $35 so it actually cost you about $92 dollars. Will this motor work with my current BEC, and Parkzone 1800 MAH battery ? David from Massachusetts
David from Massachusetts:
Great questions.
About the BEC
The BEC is a strictly optional insurance policy for me. I have heard bad reports of the stock ESC’s integrated BEC, but I’ve also heard that it is improved in more recent models of the T-28. I spent the extra $20 to make sure that an ESC failure doesn’t crash my plane. You can also get much cheaper BECs from hobbycity.
About the Batteries
I bought the PnP version of the plane so I already had batteries for it. In your case, I think the stock 1800 mah battery will work. What’s the C rating of that battery? It will need to be about 20C to work well, though 16-18C should work also.
Any other questions?
hello i ordered the motor and esc you recommended Hobbyking SS Series 40-50A ESC. My question is what bec do i need to use this stuff? And is there any special way to hook it up and program it. Thanks so much Brad
hello i ordered the motor and esc you recommended Hobbyking SS Series 40-50A ESC. My question is what bec do i need to use this stuff? And is there any special way to hook it up and program it. Thanks so much Brad
Korey in NJ
C rating is 15C so I guess I am getting new batteries. I have two of these planes I put an E-flite PARK 450 brushless outrunner in one of them already. It is certainly not the unlimited vertical you describe, but I can fly that plane on one 1800mah parkzone battery for up to 25 minutes if I stay off the full throttle and try and do some gliding. I like to get up around 400-500 feet vertical in mild wind and see how long I can stay up with that plane. The one I am trying your motor suggestion on I want for some power flying. I will get a pair of new batteries and keep you posted. But I am going to try flying it on the 15C I have just to see what the responce is. Thanks for your blog… good stuff.
Well I got the motor today. I have an aluminum engine mount on my T-28. I fly at a grass field and landings are often similar to a Lawn Boy. So the inadaquet brittle plastic engine mounts that Park Zone gives you dont last long. Two of the holes lined up perfectly and rather than weakening the other two by drilling them oblong I decided to try and fly it a few times with just two screws. The motor runs fine with the ParkZone 1800 MAH batteries and the standard ESC. Wanted to pull out of my hand. I will take it out for its first flight tomrrow morning and let you know. If the mount seems weak I will drill out the other two holes. Keep you posted.
David
The motor worked as promised even with the origional 1800MAH batteries. So much vertical climb it was a bit difficult to control, but I will get used to it. I will eventually replace the batteries with 25C’s however because the 15Cs got pretty warm and took 45 min to charge. But she flew really well. There was no loosing of the two mount screws but I will drill out the aluminum motor mount to accept the other two screws none the less with this new power I think I would be asking for trouble by not. Thanks for you blog and tips. I am really happy with the new motor.
Im sorry I lost the reply from my last question about what bec is needed for the hobby city 40-50 esc? also I just hooked up the motor to my corsair and used the aluminum motor mount from books and steam (very nice you just use a dremel and make the cowl hole a bit bigger) anyway with stock electronics in the corsair and 1800 battery the prop was wierd at full throttle. It was kind of hesitating till i brought throttle down to 75% or less. What was that?? Do I need to use the 40-50 amp esc or could i just put a bec in the stock corsair?? thanks again
Great article, comes very handy !
I just had a terrific crash, full throttle straight into the ground :-). So my stock motor is a bit broken (not to mention the plane body and wings). The engine might fly again but I have an uneasy feeling about those cracks in the rotor. I am also to have this turnigy motor on my corsair. A question though; turnigy has also the black motor series the (AerodriveXp SK Series). They say that these are “better” then the golden ones. What is your opinion ?
thank you ,
robert
Robert: Ouch!
I don’t have any experience with the Aerodrive motors. Be sure to let us know how it goes.
i will let you know. i will be in hong kong next week so i can check those hobbycity guys. whatever, i was just wondering where can i find the homepage of turnigy. i googled around with no relevant answer. i live in germany, and was curious about shipping times and costs.
I did not have the patience for the turnigy motor, and opted instead for a Power 10 (eflight) from a local shop. You can mount it without any hole drilling straight into the original corsair motor holder. The only thing you will have to change is the prop, since the original props cannot be mounted without some adaptation. Vibrations are more observable with this motor but with a good matching propeller it is not an issue. (some say that a metal motor holder solves all vibration problems, but in my case the vibrations ar barely noticeable)
HELLO, I have been using this setup for about 6 monts now.
I Have upgraded to a CASTLE CREATIONS THUNDERBIRD 54AMP ESC ($60) which has a built in BEC. Also I have purchased a aluminum motor mount from e-bay which took care of the vibration and breakage issues. Prop is a 12X6 rigid which remarkably only pulls about 32 amps and is even faster than the 10×3.8 slow flyer.I also use the zippy battery’s (GREAT DEAL), but i use the 25c discharge series. I would not even bother with the 15c because they just wouldn’t be able to keep up with the current draw. There’s nothing wrong with saving money but you still want the job to be done right. I have been flying with much success thus far.
Great job dave.
I purchased a turnigy 3650c and a super simple 50A ESC along with a PARKBEC. I can not seem to get the esc to go into program mode using a DX6i.
You will get 10 beeps if you do not provide power to the bec.
I have tried everything I can think of.
The throttle will control the motor without any problem.
I get 2 beeps once I plug in the battery (I think this means 2S battery using 3S).
DO not want to fly until I can get the esc programmed.
I’ve tried reversing the throttle. Set the trav adjust to 125% up and down.
With the throttle on , in any possition, the motor spins. (Thought there was a safe guard).
I even reset a model and rebound unsing defaults.
Does anyone know of a place museum/airport where I can pay for a flight on a T-28 Trojan with in the east coast? Or anywhere else in the country?
Could you explain the prop adapter you used on the Turnigy motor. Looks like you used the stock T-28 prop nut and the Turnigy prop adapter?
Thanks,
Oliver
Oliver: no reason, I just liked it and it fit nicely.