ParkZone T-28 Trojan Motor Upgrade

If you want to give your ParkZone T-28 Trojan unlimited vertical flight for under $30, today is your lucky day. Just head over to, and pick up one of these Turnigy 35-36C motors.

Here’s what you’ll need to do the upgrade:

  1. The new motor (duh)
  2. A Phillips-head screwdriver
  3. An everyday drill and an ordinary drill bit
    (not sure of the drill bit size — you’ll figure it out)
  4. A new prop (I use an APC 10×3.8). The stock prop’s shaft is too wide for this motor’s prop adapter

You may be asking:

  • Do I need a soldering iron? No.
  • Do I need to cut some wood or aluminum for a firewall? No.

Here’s what you do:

  1. Unscrew the three screws that secure the cowling to the nose of the plane
  2. Unscrew the four screws that hold the plastic motor mount to the firewall
  3. Disconnect the three motor wires (red, yellow, and black)
  4. Unscrew the motor from the motor mount
  5. Use the cross mount thing that came with the motor to pencil in the 4 new holes you’ll be drilling
  6. Drill the holes (be sure to use a drill bit that is the same size as the old holes
  7. Screw the motor on to the mount, connect the wires, and put the whole thing back on the plane
  8. Hold the plane straight up, power it up to full throttle, and release
  9. Watch it fly straight up to the clouds like a friggin’ rocket

Here are some photos of my (not so) handiwork:

This is what it looks like when it’s done. The motor isn’t quite as long as the stock motor, so I tossed a nut on the shaft before I put the propeller on. Without that nut, the prop would be rubbing on the cowling.

Here’s the motor bolted to the stock motor mount. I was in the process of screwing in the 4 mounting screws when I took this.

Here’s where I drilled the 4 new holes for the new motor (circled in blue). The new motor has two holes that are perfectly spaced to line up with the stock motor mount, but the other two holes are actually closer to each other, so you have to drill. I opted to drill 4 new holes, but you may get away with using just two of the stock holes, or even drilling only 2 new holes. I wasn’t quite willing to trust that, and after seeing just how much torque this motor provides, I’m glad I didn’t.

You may also notice in the photo above that this motor has a really weird prop adapter. Rather than tightening on to the shaft, it actually screws onto the bell of the motor. Notice that the motor has a shaft that extends out the aft side of the motor (if you wanted to mount it in reverse). I’ve never seen that in a motor before, but I like it. It seems much sturdier with 4 screws on the bell than a single set screw or “clamp” style prop adapter fastened to the shaft.

The Results

I took it out to the flying field today and did my usual hand launch. Except this time I only launched it using half throttle. It flew out perfectly. After a couple seconds, I punched it up to full throttle and aimed the nose at the clouds. It flew perfectly vertical for a good 5 seconds, showing no signs of slowing down. It was awesome. I was flying huge loops, square loops, vertical rolling ascents. It was great.

One problem is that the plastic motor mount causes a lot of vibration at the higher end. Oddly, the vibrating happens at about 75% throttle, but then goes away at 100% throttle. I am looking into using an aluminum mount instead. Lots of people have reported that a sturdier mount fixes the vibration problem. Don’t underestimate the vibration problem — it caused my plastic motor mount to break with a big 11″ Master Airscrew prop.

The Electronics

I used the stock speed controller (ESC), but I also have a ParkBEC because I don’t trust the stock ESC’s integrated BEC at all, having heard lots of horror stories about it. The stock ESC showed no sign of overheating, though it was about 45 degrees F outside. The motor stayed cool too.

I used a new Zippy 2200mah battery from It did great too. No signs of overheating. It came down just barely perceptibly warm to the touch. Within seconds, it had cooled to room temperature. This was the first flight of the new Zippy battery.

My Watt’s Up tells me that the 10×3.8 prop makes this motor pull exactly 30 amps. That’s a lot of amps for this ESC, so I also bought a SuperSimple 50A ESC from, which I have not installed yet. I may wait to see how the stock ESC performs for a while, because I just don’t want to solder all that crap again (including the ParkBEC).

Bottom Line

This motor is awesome. I plan to use the T-28 as an Aerotow plane soon, so this motor will give me exactly the torque I need. The plane is still quite a slow flyer compared to my Stryker, but even though the T-28’s top speed is lower, it has better vertical.

63 comments to “ParkZone T-28 Trojan Motor Upgrade”

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  1. Okay, everyone. After using this setup for a year or so, I finally decided to upgrade to an aluminum mount made by some dude on eBay. It totally solved the vibration problem. I was even able to upgrade to a larger prop with no vibration at all.

    So I would trash that plastic motor mount and pay someone $20 to get an aluminum mount right away if you plan on upgrading to this motor.

  2. Do you know of a supplier for a metal motor mount that does not require mod to the cowling to fit Turnigy 35-36C to Trojan T28D?

  3. http://George says: -#1

    I upgraded my T-28 with an Exceed power 10 Monster Power 1100kv motor, Exceed 40amp speedo with built in BEC, 10×8 Master Air Screw prop and Turnigy 2200 30c lipo. I had the same problems with vibration as everyone else here too, the only difference is I balanced my props with the Dubro thumb balancer and have ultra smooth rotation all the way through my throttle band. I still use the stock mount because I don’t want to run the risk of destroying my fire wall. I have the plane clocked at just over 65mph at WOT and with throttle management, I get 10 minute flight times. I was inspired to do these mods after reading this post from Dave, so Thanks for the encouragement (so to speak)

  4. http://Ken%20Antos says: -#1


    Can you tell me the brand name of the prop you are using. Is it a SF (Slow Flyer). That seems to be the only kind I can find for a 10×3.8. Where did you get yours? Also, can you suggest the Watt’s up meter to purchase.

    Ken Antos

  5. http://Miguel says: -#1

    They’re shipping a new motormount that is stronger. They have essentially closed two of the legs making it a much more solid mount. I used the new stock motor mount. Ideally the motor mount still needs a spacer to be perfect but I added a nut just like the og poster. I reinforced the motormount by taking the motormount that comes with the motor and cutting part of the legs of the X off so it would fit underneath the stock motor mounts. I then screwed everything together.

  6. http://Andrew says: -#1

    With installation of theis turnigy 35 36 1100 motor, do I have to change the esc also or can I use the stock esc?

  7. Andrew, the stock ESC works fine.

  8. http://Andrew says: -#1

    ok I crashed my t-28 into th lake this morning while flying. I lost site of her in the suns glare and down she went. Busted cowling motor came out of housing, esc fried. all other electronics work. Now i need a motor and an esc along with some hot glue and a few new parts. what esc do you recommend with the 35 36 1100 motor? parkzone wants to much for the stock motor and esc. nows a good time to hop her up!


  9. http://PaulD says: -#1

    Hi Dave,

    Interested in your upgrade for T-28. Your recommended motor is replaced by this one. Anyone tried it? What suggestions would you make with this setup?

    1. Motor good choice?

    2. Use same 40 amp ESC?

    3. How about prop and std accessory prop adapter listed?

    4. Any further clarification on vibration issue?


  10. PaulD:

    Here are the answers to your questions:

    1. Yes. Still running strong!

    2. Yes. Works great.

    3. Also works great.

    4. The vibration issue was 100% solved by purchasing an aluminum motor mount on eBay. I highly recommend this.

  11. http://Joe%20joe says: -#1

    Dudes I have t-28 built from scratch bought all foam from LHS put waypoint servos all around (already had from crashed sukhoi) turnegy 30/40A esc with built in linear bec turnegy 35/48-4 1100 Kv motor 4s turnegy 50-90c burst lipo( the purple ones) and a AR6200 receiver with the satellite pig tail. All ran on the stock 9.5×7.5 or the 9×7.5 3 blade props top end around 80 easy any unlimitted verticals loops and rolls with ease and sharpness crisp clean quick maneuvers . With throttle management 6-8 min flights all day (I suggest at least three batts)

  12. Dave could u please tell me if the Ternigy D3536/8 1000kv motor which i have orderd
    work ok with the Ternigy plush 30a Esc i can not find the the 1100kv also with standard trogan t28 prop be ok
    thanks Mal

  13. Im about to pull the trigger on the turnigy g10. anyone tried this set up with a MAS 3 blade prop? Cant wait to turn the trojan in to a fire breathing wh@re.

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